I was most certainly a lubber or greenhand (the seaman's historical terms of derision for a landsperson), but I jumped at the chance to go aloft. When I stood on the ratlines about a third of the way up the immense main mast of the Charles W. Morgan, clutching the shrouds just a foot or two below the platform, my fear was not just of falling to the deck or the sea far below, untethered as I was.
With some shame, I had anticipated that I would probably have to perform like an amateur -- squeeze through the lubber's hole rather than spring out over the rim of the main-top. That small chagrin, however, was soon met with the frightening realization that the lubber's hole was too small to admit my adult self through its constricted aperture. The lubber's hole was too narrow; I was stuck.
Last summer, I went briefly to sea on a ship built in 1841 as a member of the "38th Voyage" of the Charles W. Morgan. The great old whaler was no longer hunting whales, of course, but was instead on a mission to "raise awareness of America’s maritime heritage and to call attention to issues of ocean sustainability and conservation," as Mystic Seaport, the ship's home port and restorer, described the venture.
I was one of a group of teachers, artists, writers, museum professionals, and journalists serving as public historians for the ship's 38th Voyage (voyages 1-37 took place between 1841 and 1921) with the support of the National Endowment for the Humanities. As an English professor at Penn State, I specialize in 19th-century American literature with a particular interest in Herman Melville; I study sailors’ participation in literary culture as producers and consumers of books. As a 38th Voyager, I had the remarkable opportunity to have a transitory encounter with America's maritime past.
To a teacher and scholar of Herman Melville, the Charles W. Morgan presents a special magnetism. The Morgan is a sister ship to the Acushnet, the whaleship on which a young Melville famously went to sea in 1841, 10 years before he would publish Moby-Dick. Both the Morgan and the Achusnet -- nearly identical in construction -- were built in New Bedford, Massachusetts, and launched the same year. My 38th voyage leg also sailed from New Bedford, 173 years later. Herman Melville spent 18 months on his whaleship; I spent 18 hours on mine.
While looking through the thin slot that did not seem wide enough to justify the name "lubber's hole," I was mindful of the terrifically skilled crew of professional sailors keeping watch over our lubberly climb. The crew never stopped working while aboard the Morgan. They ran up the rigging, untied gaskets, hoisted sails, scooted out on footropes along the yardarms, sweated away on the ropes that govern the square-rigged ship. Watching their exercise of nautical skill, I considered Melville's relationship to expertise, and my own. Did I belong on the Charles W. Morgan? Had I earned my short passage by virtue of my book learning, my armchair knowledge? Could I make it to the top?