Academics

Fulbright Features: Cultural adjustments accompany research in Croatia

While conducting doctoral research in Zagreb, Croatia, Penn State alumna Emily Zavodny has found adjusting to the culture interesting, yet exciting. Credit: Emily ZavodnyAll Rights Reserved.

Penn State students are traveling around the world to conduct research, teach English, attend master's degree programs and more as part of the Fulbright Program, a highly sought-after nine-month international educational exchange program funded by the U.S. Department of State. This is the ninth story in a series of essays written by Penn State student Fulbright winners who have returned from or have just embarked on their trips.

While the official total won’t be released until November, at least 15 students have been offered the scholarship this year, according to Penn State’s University Fellowships Office. Last year, 11 Penn State students received the prestigious scholarship. For more information about applying for the program, visit the University Fellowships Office’s website. Click here to read more Fulbright Features.

 

This week marks my one-month anniversary in Zagreb, Croatia. Since I had been to Croatia twice before for various research projects, I wasn’t sure how difficult the transition to full-time Zagreb resident would be. Given how challenging it can sometimes be to find yourself in a new city (and country), I thought I’d been adjusting just fine. And then I found out I’d been accidentally eating the Croatian equivalent of sour cream at breakfast for the past month. Whoops. Here are some other things I didn’t know and have needed help with:

Weather-appropriate dressing. I have been a Southerner living in Pennsylvania for the past five years, so I thought I knew how to layer for “cold” weather (re: mid-60’s). Nope. I should be wearing tights under my jeans and scarves with everything. On the street, sandals elicit looks ranging from mild amusement to genuine concern. Last weekend I came down with a really bad cold. “Well,” my friend said, looking down pointedly at my tennis shoes, “you haven’t been wearing any socks.”

Coffee is an event, not something you chug to keep awake in the morning. Every guidebook will tell you about Croatian café culture, where “having a coffee” with friends or colleagues is a time to relax and visit during an otherwise busy day. I’ve always enjoyed this ritual when visiting Croatia in the past, but even I’ve been surprised this time around by how ingrained it is in daily life. Case in point: when I got off my overnight transatlantic flight, I went to meet my realtor first at a café, not the apartment I was renting.

The language. This one is obvious, and I’ve sought to remedy my ignorance as quickly as possible by enrolling in an intensive language course offered through the University of Zagreb. My co-workers and friends are also more than happy to answer my questions or teach me new phrases. Luckily enough, too, almost everyone in the city speaks flawless English and there’s always Google Translate when I’m grocery shopping on my own (though, that method did lead to my sour cream diet). All in all, I’ve found any attempt on my part to speak Croatian is well received, no matter how terribly I’m pronouncing a street name or menu item. Then again, there are some critics. My friend’s two-year-old niece covers her ears whenever I speak.

Everything Americana. The official website touts the Fulbright as the “flagship international educational exchange program sponsored by the U.S. government … designed to increase mutual understanding between the people of the United States and the people of other countries.” My Croatian friends and colleagues are interested in what Americans think about … everything. Politics, history, pop culture, language and other countries — the list is endless. I’ve already had a conversation about why Americans insist on using the imperial measuring system when the rest of the world uses metric. (Answer: I don’t know.) While sometimes these discussions make me wish I remembered more from my high school U.S. history courses, they’ve also allowed me to really reflect on being an American. And, of course, I get a chance to ask the hard-hitting questions too. (“Why does everyone here hate peanut butter?”)

Seriously, coffee is really important. I recently attended a Croatian archaeology conference in Karlovac, where there was also an opportunity to take a guided bus tour to visit various archaeological sites in the region (i.e. medieval castle ruins, caves, etc). At one point, there was mildly heavy traffic due to an accident further up the road. Thirty archaeologists immediately seized the opportunity to get off the bus and find the nearest café.

In all sincerity, though, I couldn’t be happier to be spending the next nine months in Zagreb. The people are warm and welcoming, the food is delicious and the country is beautiful. My colleagues at the Archaeological Museum (AMZ), where I am conducting my doctoral research, have helped me every step of the way, and I feel incredibly lucky to have the chance to work here among people I consider my friends. I’m looking forward to all of the new experiences, challenges and mistakes over the next few months, as I know they will all be part of a truly rewarding experience.

Last Updated November 5, 2014